keepin' it Real

Some members of my extended family hate it when I bake. They say the stuff is too darn good. Treats that are in the no-no column of their health regimes seem irresistible when they are homemade delicious.

So when I heard how well agave nectar sweetens, I had to give it a try. Agave nectar, often labeled agave syrup, is an unrefined natural sweetener extracted from agave plants. It has a relatively low glycemic index due to its proportion of fructose to glucose, and it is said to be better than sugar for diabetics and those with hypoglycemia. The glycemic index ranks foods according to how fast they are processed into glucose in the body.

Chef/caterer/cooking teacher Ania Catalano, author of "Baking with Agave Nectar" (Ten Speed, $15.95), says of all the sweeteners she has used, agave is the best choice for creating baked goods - better than honey, brown rice syrup or stevia; better than date sugar, fruit concentrates or maple syrup.

"I am hypoglycemic, so I am very sensitive to sugar," Catalano says. "So it was great for me. With agave nectar, there's no heart palpitations, no nervousness or crash in my blood sugar levels - things that would invariably occur after I had consumed high-glycemic sweeteners.

"Use agave syrup in combination with whole-grain flours, which have fiber, and you come up with a much healthier dessert. But you have to change the whole recipe around."

Agave nectar is sweeter than sugar. Catalano says that for every cup of granulated sugar a recipe requires, bakers should substitute 3/4 cup of agave nectar. Because less is used for the same level of sweetness, calories are reduced. One tablespoon of agave nectar has 45 calories and 11 grams of carbohydrates, ever so slightly lower than granulated sugar.

Catalano says the substitution works perfectly for cakes, muffins and any dessert that has a somewhat moist texture. The only downfall, she says, is creating crisp cookies.

She had to experiment a lot before making cookies that met her standards. Her first attempts at a classic chocolate chip cookie were failures. She had to learn how to deal with the moisture-retaining qualities in the syrup.

I asked her about the taste. If you made two pear tarts, one sweetened with sugar and one with agave nectar, how would they taste different?

"I think that most consumers wouldn't notice a difference," she says, adding that that difference is subtle. "I think the agave nectar actually enhances the flavor of the fruit. It brings out the sweetness in fruit and the nuances that differentiate varieties of fruit. There is more of a caramel-ly sweetness (with agave) than just the straightforward sweetness that sugar gives.

"Table sugar has a straightforward sugary flavor; agave has more character -  a more floral (quality) when added to dessert, creamy sauces or ice cream. It's a more interesting sweetness."

Most often, agave nectars are labeled light, amber or dark. Catalano suggests the light kind for "delicate" desserts, baked goods, sauces and beverages. Amber is used for many desserts and some sauces and savory dishes. Dark has stronger caramel notes and is best used in poultry, meat and seafood dishes. She also recommends the dark nectar for a right-from-the-bottle pancake syrup or waffle syrup.

Pastry chef Katie Averill, who taught baking and food chemistry at The Art Institute of California-Orange County and who teaches at Tspoons Cooking School in Ladera Ranch, Calif., has had great success with agave nectar.

"Over the years my students have asked me about baking for diabetics, and my past experiences have often been a flop using other sugar substitutes," Averill says.

"One of the main problems is that you can't cream the butter and agave syrup like you can butter and sugar. You can't get an emulsion. You get a liquid with little bubbles in it.

"I found that you have to slightly reduce some of the other liquid in the recipe, such as milk, water or juice.

"I especially like my cornmeal blueberry cornbread muffins. They have a gentle hint of sweetness. Delicious, but don't expect it to be a dessert." Agave nectar is sold in bottles at Trader Joe's, Bristol Farms, Mother's Market, Whole Foods and many supermarkets with large natural-food specialty sections.

Here are several recipes from Averill and Catalano that use agave nectar instead of sugar.

BLUEBERRY CORNBREAD MUFFINS
Yield: 12
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup dark agave nectar (Light agave works, but the agave flavor is even less distinct.)
2 teaspoon minced lemon zest (colored portion of peel)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup plain yogurt (low-fat or nonfat)
1 pint blueberries

Procedure:
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line muffin tins with paper liners or spray an 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish with nonstick spray.

Beat butter with the paddle attachment of stand mixer. Add agave as mixer is running. Add zest and juice. Add eggs one at a time. Mixture will appear "broken," but that is OK.

In separate bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt; stir to mix. Reduce the mixer speed and add the dry ingredients alternately with the yogurt. Mix only as long as necessary to combine ingredients. Fold in blueberries. Scoop batter into muffin cups with an ice cream scooper or pour into the 8-inch pan. Bake muffins about 30 minutes until firm to the touch or pour into pan and bake for about 45 minutes until firm.

Nutrition information (per muffin): 240 calories, 39 percent of calories from fat, 1 0 g fat, 2.3 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 39 g carbohydrates, 3.5 g protein, 230 mg sodium, 1.9 g fiber
Source: Pastry chef Katie Averill, Laguna Beach

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER MOUSSE-FILLED CUPCAKES
Yield: 18 cupcakes
Cupcakes:
2 3/4 cups sprouted spelt flour or whole-wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted
1/2 cup canola oil
1 1/4 cups light agave nectar
1 cup soy milk
1/2 cup firm silken tofu
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Filling:
12 ounces firm silken tofu
1/2 cup light agave nectar
1 cup smooth peanut butter
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon sea salt Vegan
Chocolate Ganache Frosting (recipe included)
Pastry bag fitted with large, plain, smooth tip
Optional garnish:
Chopped toasted peanuts

Procedure:
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line two cupcake pans with 18 paper liners and fill the empty cups half-full of water to prevent scorching.

To make cupcakes: Mix flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cocoa in large bowl. In food processor, blend oil, agave nectar, soy milk, tofu, vanilla and vinegar, scraping down sides of bowl often. Blend until very smooth, with no chunks of tofu visible, about 2 to 3 minutes. Combine the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients. Stir well and spoon into cupcake liners, leaving room at the top of each cup. Bake 20 minutes or until toothpick inserted into center of cupcake comes out clean. Remove cupcakes from pan and place on cooling rack. Cool completely before filling.

Prepare filling: To prepare filling, blend tofu in food processor until very smooth and creamy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add agave nectar and blend again. Add peanut butter, vanilla and salt; blend thoroughly until very light and smooth. Refrigerate 1 to 2 hours to firm before filling cupcakes.

Fill pastry bag with filling and insert tip halfway into top of a cupcake. Squeeze filling inside each cupcake just until it starts to expand.

Frost the tops with Vegan Chocolate Ganache Frosting. If the frosting is too firm, heat in the microwave for a few seconds to soften it up.

Spread the ganache evenly over the cupcake tops. Let the cupcakes sit in the refrigerator until ready to serve. If desired, garnish with chopped peanuts.

Nutrition information (per cupcake): 540 calories, 75 percent of calories from fat, 45 g fat, 8.1 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 470 mg sodium, 1.2 g fiber
Source: "Baking With Agave Nectar" by Ania Catalano (Ten Speed, $15.95)

VEGAN CHOCOLATE GANACHE FROSTING
Yield: 2 cups
8 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 cup light agave nectar
3/4 cup nondairy creamer
1 tablespoon nonhydrogenated butter substitute
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Procedure:
Combine chocolate, agave nectar and creamer in saucepan. Heat over medium heat until chocolate melts, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in the butter substitute and vanilla extract. To spread easily, make sure the ganache is slightly warm and the consistency of hot fudge.

Nutrition information (per tablespoon): 91 calories, 89 percent of calories from fat, 8.9 g fat, 3.2 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 1.6 g carbohydrates, 1.1 g protein, 1 28 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber

Source: "Baking With Agave Nectar" by Ania Catalano (Ten Speed, $15.95)

FRENCH PEAR FRANGIPANE TARTE
Yield: 12
Sweet Pastry Crust:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or nonhydrogenated butter substitute, at room temperature
2 tablespoons light agave nectar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups sprouted spelt flour or whole-wheat pastry flour
Filling:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or nonhydrogenated butter substitute, room temperature
1/3 cup light agave syrup
2 large eggs
1/2 cup almond meal (available at Trader Joe's)
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons Kirsch (a clear brandy made from cherry juice and pits)
Topping:
4 ripe Bartlett pears
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 1/2 tablespoons light agave syrup
3 tablespoons juice-sweetened apricot jam
For serving:
Ice cream or whipped cream (see Step 5)

Procedure:
Prepare crust: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In an electric mixer, beat butter, agave nectar and salt until light and well-combined. Add egg yolks and vanilla extract; beat well. Stir in flour and mix until just combined but still crumbly. Divide dough in half. Roll out half portion on lightly floured work surface, making a circle that is a little larger than a 10-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Place in pan and press sides against fluted edge of pan. Prick crust in many places with tines of fork. Refrigerate or freeze leftover dough for later use. Prebake crust in middle of a 325-degree oven for 10 minutes.

Prepare filling: Using an electric mixer, beat butter and agave nectar until light and well-combined. Add 2 eggs and beat again. Add almond meal, almond extract and Kirsch. Beat well. Pour into prepared tart crust.

Prepare topping: Peel and halve pears, drizzling with lemon juice as you go to keep them from turning brown. Core and slice each half into thin slices, keeping them together at the stem end. (Do not cut through.) Fan out the pears slightly and place each over filling in a circular pattern. Drizzle with agave nectar and bake 40 to 45 minutes or until they turn a light goldenbrown.

Warm the apricot jam in saucepan over low heat and brush or drizzle over pears. Let tart cool slightly.

It is best served with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. To make agave-sweetened whipped cream, beat together 2 cups heavy whipping cream, 5 tablespoons light agave nectar, 1 tablespoon vanilla extract and a pinch of sea salt until stiff peaks form.

Nutrition information (per serving): 380 calories, 49 percent of calories from fat, 20.6 g fat, 3.9 g saturated fat, 33 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 1 0 g protein, 399 mg sodium, 1.1 g fiber

Source: "Baking With Agave Nectar" by Ania Catalano (Ten Speed, $15.95)

OAT AND MAPLE CREAM SANDWICH COOKIES
Yield: 12 cookies
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated butter substitute
1 cup light agave nectar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup firm silken tofu, puréed in processor until smooth
1 cup sprouted spelt flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3 cups regular rolled oats (not quick-cooking)
Optional:
1 cup walnuts, chopped
1 cup raisins
Filling:
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated butter substitute
1/3 cup plus
1 tablespoon light agave nectar
1/3 cup unsweetened soy milk powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon maple extract
Procedure:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

To make cookies: In a large bowl using an electric mixer at medium-high speed beat together the butter substitute, agave nectar and vanilla extract until fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the puréed tofu and mix until blended well. Add the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and oats; stir well. Fold in walnuts and raisins if using. Drop the batter by heaping tablespoonfuls onto prepared baking sheets. Using the back of a spoon, flatten slightly and shape into circles. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until lightly golden. Cool completely on cooling racks.
To make filling: In large bowl using an electric mixer at medium-high speed beat butter substitute until softened and fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add agave nectar and continue to beat well. Add soy milk powder, vanilla extract and maple extract; beat on high, scraping down the bowl to incorporate all ingredients. Continue to beat until light and fluffy.

To fill cookies: Spoon 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of filling on flat side of one cookie. Top with a second cookie, bottom side on the filling. Wrap individually in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze in plastic freezer bags for up to 3 months.

Nutrition information (per cookie): 82 calories, 54 percent of calories from fat, 4.5 g fat, 1.3 g saturated fat, 1 1 mg cholesterol, 1 0 g carbohydrates, 0.6 g protein, 55 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber

Source: "Baking With Agave Nectar" by Ania Catalano (Ten Speed, $15.95)